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Donkey Kong Restoration April 17, 2011

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After stripping down the control panel, I repainted the black part that shows around the control panel overlay. I used flat black but then gave it a coat of matte clear to keep it looking nice for a long time.

The final paint work on Donkey Kong.

Once that paint dried, I re-installed the joystick, buttons, and new control panel overlay, complete with the new instruction sheet. I also gave it eight new plated carriage bolts, available through

When you buy 20 feet of the 9/16" T-molding, you have plenty left over to do the front of the control panel. As always, I glued it down with 3M #8061 plastic & emblem adhesive.

Installing the control panel T-molding.

It's time to do the final installation of the control panel. Be very careful handling the tiny pins on the cable connectors--they're easily bent and damaged.

Installing the restored control panel.

I replaced the damaged power cord. This required a little bit of soldering and heat-shrink tubing work.

Installing the new power cord.

Almost done--just a few more finishing touches.

So close!

This machine had replacement play and jump buttons that were black and red respectively. That's not how the game was made, so I ordered a set from Mikes Arcade. They now are original (well pretty close) blue and orange colors. I also purchased and installed a new reproduction bezel instruction decal.

The new buttons and instruction sheet are installed.

And that's it! Donkey Kong is done and occupying a place of honor in my home arcade.

Donkey Kong is looking fine!

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