Donkey Kong Restoration April 17, 2011
After notching the T-molding, lay some glue in the groove on the cabinet edges.
Many technicians use hot-glue for this but I prefer clear 3M Plastic & Emblem
Adhesive, p/n 08061. Hot glue sets quickly and doesn't give you a lot of extra
time. The Plastic & Emblem Adhesive gets tacky very quickly and dries completely
in about 3-5 minutes. Because it stays pliable and is crystal clear, you don't
have to worry much about drips or slight oozing.
Use a soft-face hammer to tap the T-molding in place. Make sure you have it
all the way down on both sides. Trim the excess length squarely and you're done!
Now it's time to apply the side art decals. As far as decal location, it's very
hard to find a picture of a Donkey Kong that's truly original. The side art was
notorious for peeling off those gel-coated cabinets. When I found a photo of one,
there usually wasn't a decal on it at all or it had been replaced by someone with
I was able to find some photos of original Donkey Kongs, but even then I noticed
differences in decal location. Most seemed to have the
middle of the green "Donkey Kong" logo at the top aligned with the bottom marquee
bracket. As for lateral placement, I gave it the "eyeball test", moving it left
and right until there were pleasingly equal amounts of blue cabinet showing on
Don't try to apply the decal dry! Before peeling away the backing, apply a very
small amount of window cleaner (like Windex®). This will allow you to work out
the bubbles. You can even reposition it if necessary--at least for a few minutes.
Use a row of masking tape along the top of the decal to hold it in place. Reposition
it until you have it exactly where you want it.
Now press the decal in place using a soft squeegee. Work from the middle out. Do
your best to work all air bubbles to the edges.
After the decal has adhered, slowly peel away the top protective covering.
Work any remaing air bubbles to the edges.