Donkey Kong Restoration April 17, 2011
The base of this cabinet was in bad shape. Plus, this machine was made without
any provision for leveler feet. That was really going to be a problem because
Donkey Kong will be sitting in my basement game room. Poured concrete floors never
have a flat place and I don't want the Pergo flooring to get scratched. I elected
to build a new base and install nylon levelers.
Eight feet of 1" x 4" birch filled the bill nicely. It's really smooth and more
durable than pine or plywood. I glued the mitered corners and shot finishing nails
into each with a nail gun. Then I added 1" x 2" mounting strips that I drilled and
countersunk for drywall screws.
I glued and screwed the new base to the bottom of the cabinet. It'll hold up really
well to the leveler feet that I'll add next.
Now I cut and installed 2" x 4" corner braces. I drilled each first and installed
3/8" T-nuts for the levelers. Then with a little help from a C-clamp I glued
and nailed them in place. Pneumatic nail guns have to be one of the best
The end result looked great after primer and matte black paint.
Next up: repainting the inner black parts in matte black.
Now it's time for the new T-molding. First, mark starting points on the underside
of the cabinet. Lay the molding in place and rough-cut it to length. The "T" part
of the molding can't make very sharp turns and must be notched. On areas that
wrap over outside curves, you must create V-notches that allow the "T" part of
the molding to gather without bunching. I use a red felt-tip marker to mark these
areas with a straight line, then use snips to cut out small V's along the line as
I mark inside curve bends with a series of dashes. Then make straight cuts about
3/8" inch apart along the marked area. These cuts allow the "T" part of the
molding to spread.