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Donkey Kong Restoration April 17, 2011

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The base of this cabinet was in bad shape. Plus, this machine was made without any provision for leveler feet. That was really going to be a problem because Donkey Kong will be sitting in my basement game room. Poured concrete floors never have a flat place and I don't want the Pergo flooring to get scratched. I elected to build a new base and install nylon levelers.

Eight feet of 1" x 4" birch filled the bill nicely. It's really smooth and more durable than pine or plywood. I glued the mitered corners and shot finishing nails into each with a nail gun. Then I added 1" x 2" mounting strips that I drilled and countersunk for drywall screws.

Attaching the new base.

I glued and screwed the new base to the bottom of the cabinet. It'll hold up really well to the leveler feet that I'll add next.



Now I cut and installed 2" x 4" corner braces. I drilled each first and installed 3/8" T-nuts for the levelers. Then with a little help from a C-clamp I glued and nailed them in place. Pneumatic nail guns have to be one of the best inventions ever!

Adding the corner braces for the leveler feet.




The end result looked great after primer and matte black paint.

The new base is clean and rock solid.




Next up: repainting the inner black parts in matte black.

With the addition of the inside black paint, this cabinet is nearly done.




Now it's time for the new T-molding. First, mark starting points on the underside of the cabinet. Lay the molding in place and rough-cut it to length. The "T" part of the molding can't make very sharp turns and must be notched. On areas that wrap over outside curves, you must create V-notches that allow the "T" part of the molding to gather without bunching. I use a red felt-tip marker to mark these areas with a straight line, then use snips to cut out small V's along the line as shown below.

These V cuts are needed for tight outside curves.




I mark inside curve bends with a series of dashes. Then make straight cuts about 3/8" inch apart along the marked area. These cuts allow the "T" part of the molding to spread.

These straight cuts are needed for tight inside curves.


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